Dubrovnik to Corfu (via Albania) Part 2

Cala spera.......
Sorry to keep you all on tenterhooks, but you may have heard that I have my right arm in a cast after a fall in the marina! After an (amusing) trip to the fracture clinic yesterday it appears that nothing is broken (thank you wind Gods!) but have to keep the cast on till Tuesday. I will blog on my Greek hospital experience later as I think my medical associates will find it interesting.
Anyway....... back to Albania. When I left you last we had made the decision to head back to Vlore in Albania. I must admit that I wasn't particularly pleasant to live with for this leg of the trip! We had about 18 nms to go to get into Vlore and anxiety of entering Albania, our lack of ability to contact anyone and fatigue were taking their toll. But my stoic, heroic Craig kept on valiantly and soon we were making 7 knots back to land.
We reached the entrance to the bay just after 6.30pm. We were still unable to reach the port authorities, the marina or the other boats in our convoy and doubt started to creep in that there may be something wrong with our VHF radio.
The customs check in was miles away from the marina and eventually (sick to death of my whingeing, my (stoic, heroic) Craig decided to head straight for the marina and to hell with checking in to Albania (or words to that effect)!!
We arrived in the marina around 8pm and were rewarded with the beautiful sight of the crews from both Lady Olivia and Broke Aweigh standing on the pontoon!!! I don't think I have ever been so happy to see anyone in my life apart from the time that I lost my 2 year old son at Southbank on Australia day. After mutual hugs, kisses and tears (me, of course!) we settled down and decided to tell our stories over dinner.
Kate and Andrew had arrived in Vlore around lunchtime as they had pulled the pin after the first storm. They had checked into the country properly at a cost of 55 euros and apart from an official disappearing with their passports for an hour, which had cuased a few nervous moments, had had little trouble. The crew from Broke Aweigh hadn't checked in to the country and when we quizzed the marina guy he told us that the other 'English boat" hadn't checked in either but as long as we were gone by 7am things woukd be ok! He pocketed our 22 euros (cash) and photocopied our ships papers and returned them to us. The marina was almost empty and looked pretty desolate. Kate told me that the third loo along had a seat and toilet paper so I should use that one.
The crew of Broke Aweigh invited us out to dine with them at a restaurant they had been told about just up the road and although we technically shouldn't have stepped ashore, the lure of a decent meal was too tempting so we pulled down the quarantine flag on Shirley Valentine and headed off into the rainy night, smelly armpits and all.
We found them at a reasonable looking restaurant up the road and gratefully sat down and peeled off our sopping wet weather gear. The waiter spoke a little English, however there did not appear to be a menu or price list. We were offered chicken, fish or carne and after ordering, the food (and a few bottles of local wine) came thick and fast. Grilled chicken, greasy chips and Greek salad have never tasted so good!
Over dinner we learned Broke Aweigh's story. After the last text message we had received from them, they had decided against going into Vlore the first time around and we had almost mirrored each others movements all day. They had arrived in the marina about 1 hour before us. They had had some engine trouble and it had cut out altogether at one point. It had started again but now it kept dropping its revs on and off. They had also broken a shackle on their back stay during the trip. Poor Sue had had an even worse trip than me!
Towards the end of the evening, after feeding the restuarant cat the left over chicken, the boys got talking to a French couple in wet weather gear at the next table to us. He was a retired French naval captain and was a bit of a character! Soon we were all getting resounding 'cheek' kisses (including the men) and Craig will forever regret not telling him that he was probably the only French naval captain to kiss someone called 'Hardy'..........
We paid the bill and headed back out into the rain. We must have looked a sorry sight, as next thing we knew we were being bundled into the restaurant owners mercedes benz (all 5 of us with me sitting on Craig's knee) and were whisked back to the marina! Not sure if we had been ripped off and he was feeling a little guilty, however I prefer to think that he was just a really nice bloke!
We slept very soundly that night and awoke the next morning feeling a little hungover but refreshed and ready to set off. The weather had improved and although still overcast the rain had stopped. Lady Olivia had left a little earlier than the rest of us as they had gone to bed at a sensible hour and hadn't had any Albanian wine!!
We were now on about a quarter of a tank of fuel and had been advised not to refuel in Vlore as there was 'something wrong with the filter' and we would have been almost guarnteed dirty diesel. This was just a tad disappointing as this had been the main reason for pulling in there. Broke Aweigh had spare fuel on board but were (understandably!) reluctant to part with it. We decided to make the rest of the trip together, keeping in sight of one another and Terry loaned us his hand held VHF radio so that we could keep in touch. The decision was that if we ran out of fuel they would give us their spare and if their engine spluttered and died we would tow them.
We fled Albania before the 7am bewitching hour and for the first few hours got the promised winds from the north and were able to sail. Broke Aweigh challenged us to a race, which was just what the doctor ordered to get our minds off things and we had great fun battling it out down the Albanian coast. The result was announced as a 'gentleman's draw' however I am not a gentleman and I say that I won ! :-))
As the winds died off we reluctantly turned on our engines as we wanted to reach Corfu sometime this century. The highlight of the trip for us was the company of a pod of four dolphins who hitched a ride in our bow wake for about 10 to 15 minutes. Sublime!!
As we neared Corfu, Broke Aweigh radioed to suggest that we head into Kassiopi on the north eastern corner of the island for the night as it was getting late and we all showered and titivated ourselves up whilst still under way for a meal ashore on our arrival.
In Kassiopi, Craig and I had to do our first ever true 'med mooring' which involves dropping the anchor 3 to 4 boat lengths from the quay and reversing on it, then tying stern ropes to the quay. Luckily it worked first time and we didn't disgrace ourselves. We did have the advantage of having the crew from Broke Aweigh there to take our lines though! We had a lovely meal ashore and a great nights sleep.
In the morning I was determined to have an English breakfast which we found in a little cafe up town. I know I sound shallow and should be in Benidorm, however I devoured every drop of fried egg with gusto!
Craig was anxious to get to Gouvia marina to check into the country properly and so we decanted Broke Aweigh's spare fuel into our tank and headed off. We reckon we had reached Kassiopi with about 5 litres to spare.......
When we arrived at Gouvia marina we found both Lady Olivia and Karma Waters (who had set off from Dubrovnik the day before us). The latter had also encountered the storms but were able to keep going to Corfu. After more fond greetings we settled in.
After licking our wounds and resting for a few days we are now recovering. Craig only managed to book us into the country on Tuesday and we can officially stay for 6 months.
There was something wrong with our VHF radio and we were able to isolate a faulty connection at the base of the mast. This has now been repaired and we are also going to buy our very own hand held before setting off again. Broke Aweigh have had their engine repaired and have set off southwards. We have booked into the marina here for a month to give us a bit of a breather and plan to go on a road trip round the island for a few days while my wing heals. When I can sail again we will do day trips or over nighters using the marina as a base. Craig's daughter Anna is hopefully joining us for a week next Tuesday and it will be lovely to have her on board.
Well, that's all for now. I have to say that the massive positive out of all of this for me is the reinforcement of the fact that the majority of 'yachties' are thoroughly decent people and I am so glad to have made the acquaintance and had the support and company of the crews from Broke Aweigh, Lady Olivia and Karma Waters during this leg of our trip. Hope to catch up with you all somewhere on our travels!
To our families..... we are both safe and well. If you think about it like this, I got through 3 gruelling days at sea without as much as a bruise, then trip in the marina and end up in a cast! Just goes to prove that being on land is much, much more dangerous! :-))
xxxx
Lesley